Sol and Sylvia Horwitz visit family in Bessarabia, 1936

Travel Diary excerpts: Date: Sunday, May 24, 1936 Place: Chernovitz We reached the Romanian border and immediately bribery and corruption began. - Sol Horwitz (excerpt) Date: Sunday, May 24, 1936 Place: Chernovitz Got into Chernovitz at 12 and went to hotel where we wanted to bathe but was informed that water is shut off at 11 P.M. every night. Freshened up and went out to eat. The restaurant was outdoors and dancing was in the middle of yard. Place not too clean and Jewish waiters were rather dirty. The dancers or guests danced the old time tango. To bed at 2 A.M. - Sylvia Horwitz (excerpt) Date: Monday, May 25, 1936 Place: Falesht I was astounded to see so many dirty looking people walking barefooted, but little did I dream I would see millions of them in northern Romania. - Sylvia Horwitz (excerpt) Date: Monday, May 25, 1936 Place: Falesht We could observe from the train the natives working in the field barefooted and in large numbers and all by hand. The people are very poor and everything is very backward. - Sol Horwitz (excerpt) Date: Tuesday, May 26, 1936 Place: Falesht We took pictures and watched the town and listened to many talks of woe and they have plenty. The community is the “Hell Hole of the World” The only thing modern is the lighting but everything else is ancient including the outside plumbing, the water carries the muddy street and the ignorance of the people - Sol Horwitz Date: Tuesday, May 26, 1936 Place: Falesht Finally we arrived at Falesti! What a lousy place that is! A man whom we thought was Jewish -- he spoke Jewish very frequently- grabbed our baggage and put it on a horse and buggy. The drivers of the other buggies were arguing and cursing as they take each others business away. The station is 15 minute ride from town and the ride was so bumpy. I was scared stiff. The houses on outskirts all had straw roofs and the pigs and dogs seemed have better lodging than the children. When we got to main street, or alley, Sol jumped out when he inquired for “Phona Aurilius”. She came running to meet him. We were taken into “Gettles” house where we met the entire family. Immediately they started to test the material of my dress and ask prices. Geetle Beazab called me out after we were there an hour asked me if I wanted to go someplace. I nodded and followed her out the back door. She stopped short of the backdoor and said, “you can do it right here as I am afraid to go way in the backyard” and she picked up her dress. I was amazed but in Rome do as the Romans do, so I followed suit. We talked until 12 midnight and then we went to Ruhul Kaufman's house to sleep. - Sylvia Horwitz Date: June [May] 28, 1936 Place: Beltz Today we drove by car to Beltz we saw Dad’s old pals Shea Polarie, Nuzen Rumer, Yonhel Pisakhys and Yontel Polarie I took pictures of the home, the old synagogue and visited with Mema Ozzie. I saw Minnie Ezerzer uncle and family who are very poor. I saw Harry Warner’s family. We spent another lousy day in Falesti but religion is a big thing although the stores are open. Business is kept open even during the holidays. Whatever holiday just past I don’t know but the stores were open. - Sol Horwitz Date: Thursday May 28, 1936 Place: Falesti and Beltz Up at 9 A.M. and went out to find the street filled with natives who come in from the farms and docks to buy, sell, and barter their wares. They are a filthy look lot. Women barefooted, wide skirts, dirty blouses, kerchiefs on head - usually carrying a babe in arms. Men wear Russian hats, beard, heavy boots and sell flowers seed, wild cherries, etc. Saw a woman sit down on curb and nurse baby. … Then to Harry Warner’s father’s home, where the entire family cried due to conditions and lack of dowry for youngest daughter left me depressed and morbid. Then in succession visited Sol’s birthplace, childhood home, synagogue, old time friend of Sol’s Dad. Then Nurem’s house (Uncle of Fiterman) where we heard another sob story due to lack of dowry. - Sylvia Horwitz (excerpt) Date: May 29, 1936 Place: Falesti Today is Sat and we packed to leave I was sweating all night and had diarrhea. I checked it with Time of Opinie. We were advised not to go because because the Cuserts meeting in Kishineft but I did not believe them but we left any way. At the depot the attendant refused sell us any tickets because of the danger of injuring us. We turned back and took in a show but I was sick and now I believe it was purely nervousness as I recovered as soon as I left Falesti.- Sol Horwitz Date: Monday June 1 , 1936 Place: Tulcea, Romania Arrival on large boat for Tulcea at 9 A.M. and was thrilled upon the realization that I was actually on Blue Danube river of which I read so much only the Blue Danube is not blue but a dirty golden color. Scenery was very pretty and boat trip very pleasant. - Sylvia Horwitz (excerpt) Date: June 1, 1936 Place: Tulcea We got up in the morning and took the boat to Tulcea. We had an excellent trip down the Danube but instead of the river being blue it was golden due to a lot of sand. We had an excellent dinner on board the boar and arrived at Tulsea about 1 P.M. - Sol Horwitz Date: June 2,1936 Place: Ishmail We went to Sylvia’s Uncle’s place of business and then to his home. We had a nap and at night took in a restaurant and to bed. In the morning we got up and at at her uncle's home and took pictures after dinner. We took the boat at 1 P.M. and arrive at Ishmeal 4 P.M. - Sol Horwitz Date: June 6, 1936 Place: Bucharest Today we sailed again and how glad I was to get out of the -- The less I say about my visit in Romania the better. - Sol Horwitz In summary of the two travel logs, Sol Horwitz discusses the stage show at Paris’ Cafe La Tabaran; visiting various European landmarks; speaking with Nazi and Jewish sympathizers on board various trains; almost losing his wife and luggage on the wrong train; feelings of his family and friends about the state of Europe in 1939; crime and corruption in Falesti; Nazi customs changing his hometown; visiting his father’s friends; falling ill because of nerves; and getting into trouble for not checking in with police. In her travel log, Sylvia Horwitz discusses shopping in Paris; visiting various palaces in Europe; speaking with Nazi and Jewish sympathizers; the opinions of her husband’s wealthy friends; not being able to bathe after 11 p.m. in Chernovitz; the state of the Jewish community in Romania in 1939; her relatives concern for money; visiting notable landmarks in her husband's life; not being recognized by her relatives; washing her hair with rainwater; not being sold a train ticket because she and her husband were Jewish; her husband falling ill; traveling down the Blue Danube; visiting the cemetery where her Uncle and Aunt are buried; and sadly parting with her family.